Looking for installing custom roller blinds fitting perfectly every time?
This is the first complete guide into roller blind installation giving you all the information you need in nearly any scenario to complete your installation. Once completed your blind will be securely attached to the correct location, balanced, and looking beautiful.
This guide goes into the details of installing roller blinds only and not the customisation or manufacturing of roller blinds. Also, this is for internal roller blinds only, with no outdoor blinds, pelmet, or cassette installation. If you need help measuring for blinds we have you covered.
In most cases installing a roller blind is considered an easy process. However, if you read on you will find out some installations can be a bit challenging. So, some installations are not recommended for a DIYer, therefore, use common sense and hire a professional.
I will also provide you with many trade secrets and the best practices to getting the blinds nice and balanced in 5 steps. In step 4 I’ll list out 21 different installation scenarios which should provide you a solution for what you are looking to achieve.
I have kept this guide as basic for you to understand as possible. However, if you think this is a bit complicated or would like a professional job completed, you can call me, and I will personally be able to sort your custom blinds in Sydney. I also have colleagues as skilled as myself for blind installations Melbourne.
Here is how I grade each installation scenario:
Easy – If you have held a tool before, you can do this.
Medium – A bit tricky, but if you have a bit of DIY know how this can be done.
Hard – Not recommended you attempt this as it may be very time-consuming, complicated, or simply just dangerous. You should hire a professional.
Expert – Blind installers with a few years of blind installing experience will be needed to complete this task.
What you will need
You will need the correct blind at the window, the brackets (with or without cover plates), the mechanisms, the chain (with or without the chain joiner or ball stoppers), the child safety latch, a step ladder, a tape measure, a drill (standard driver bit) or screwdriver (Philips), screws (decent quality), a flat head screwdriver, pencil, electrical tape, and other various hand tools which may be required.
For masonry, you will additionally need a hammer drill with a masonry drill bit 5.5mm or 6mm, 6mm wall plugs, a hammer, and a dustpan or handheld vacuum. Note some packaged blinds come with the 5.5mm plugs, which is why it’s good to have both sizes of drill bits.
For plasterboard or gyprock, you will additionally need gyprock plugs and possibly spring toggles (Drywall anchors).
For a complicated installation, you may require a large assortment of tools and parts, including scissors, a Stanley knife, a hacksaw (fine-toothed for aluminum), a rubber, crack filler, white-out, black texture, various sizes of flathead, and Philips screwdriver, Allen keys, Spirit level, chisel, cold chisel, tin snips, bottlenose pliers and monkey grips there are more but this lists a majority of tools you may require.
So let’s get your roller blinds installed
STEP #1 How to set your blind up before installation
Get your custom blind set up for the correct configuration. Is it a conventional roll or backward roll?
Pre-set the chain joiner (note some chains are unending (loop chains) so no need to do this then).
Push the chain mechanism into the blind, then on the other side the idler mechanism.
You’re set for the installation now.
Pro tip 1 – Surface prep is sometimes a great idea to go the extra mile. To do this:
1. Remove any existing blind and existing blind parts.
2. Wipe down any dirt, mould, or dust.
3. Add a small amount of crack filler to any existing holes which are now redundant. If you added filler to black or dark-coloured aluminum, touch the filler up with a black permanent marker after the filler has had a bit of time to dry.
STEP #2 How to install the brackets for your roller blind
Make sure you have the chain side bracket and idler side bracket on the correct side to match the way the blind has been configured.
Hold the bracket in the desired position and mark a dot with a pencil. For internal mounts have the bracket against the side and dot the part of the bracket channel that allows you the maximum amount of adjustment if you have to bring the bracket in.
For external mount, you can put a dot in the center of the bracket giving you the option to move the bracket slightly inwards or outwards.
Once you have dotted your screw holes, you drill these out and add any fittings if required.
Once your holes are ready, using quality screw fittings, screw the brackets into position.
Pro tip 2 – The reason for using high-quality fittings is if in the future you wish to remove the blind or change the blind this will eliminate the risk of a potential headache. Cheap screws are at risk of burring out or have their head stripped, which means a Philips head or flat head screwdriver won’t be able to get the screws out. There are solutions to get these out, which involve demolishing the stripped screw with a metal screw, or to knock the head off the stripped screw with a cold chisel and a hammer, or twisting the stripped screw out with pliers, or finally using force to yank the stripped screw out with pliers.
STEP #3 How to hang your blind up onto the bracketing (complete once brackets are installed)
Set your ladder up in the correct position which is usually 3 quarters along towards the idler side of the blind. This will allow you to lift the blind from near the center.
Once you are holding the blind up slide in the chain side mechanism, this will usually push in then lock downwards. Once this is in using a flat head push in the spring-loaded idler mechanism or wind the idler mechanism, so the pin retracts then slide this into the bracket, allowing the pin to push into the hole locking the blind off.
Once you have clicked the blind into the brackets, wait 5 seconds and be ready to catch the blind. You may think a blind is secure, but it’s still possible it’s not this is about how long it would take if it were to fall off.
Go over to the chain side and check that it has been locked in the correct way, and the blind and the bracket is straight. To see step 5 below if you need help balancing the blind and what to do to test the blind.
STEP #4 Choose your scenario for the type of installation
Scenario #1: Blind installation into a timber frame
Starting with the easiest and most common installation type, usually, the blinds would be installed inside the frame. To do this, line the brackets up the top and bring the bracketing in 1cm from the room side of the frame. If the frame is narrow 1cm from the window side.
To reduce the risk of timber splitting, you can predrill these holes if you like. Screw your two screws into each of the brackets.
Other common installation types are onto the architraves or external mount. For these it’s a similar process, just see these photos of where to attach screws. External brackets will likely require cover plates.
Pro tip 3 - Cover plates can be used to space internally installed blind brackets inwards filling the void if the blind is a slightly smaller fit. In some instances, on architrave installations. some of the timber might prevent the cover plate from sliding on properly. A solution to this is to cut short the cover plate, reattached, and make sure it holds with some super glue to the bracket or clear liquid nails.
Pro tip 4 – Older or cheaper timber is prone to cracking. To avoid this predrill the hole with a smaller drill piece or pre-drill the hole with a Tek head screw. If you drill and the timber cracks you can add crack filler to the crack and touch this up with white paint or white-out.
Scenario #2: Blind installation into brickwork, masonry, or concrete
Once your holes are marked, get your hammer drill and make sure it's set onto the hammer setting. Pre tap a screw or nail onto the holes you have drawn to make sure your hammer drill does not slip around. This will make sure you get your hole accurately on the mark.
Don’t use excessive force and let the hammer drill do the work for you. Drill a hole that is about 25-40mm deep. You should catch the dust with a vacuum or dustpan.
Using your hammer, tap in your wall plugs. The most common size for internal roller blinds is the red wall plug 6mm, which is used with a 6mm drill bit. Some blinds supply wall plugs, and these wall plugs can be less than 6mm this is when a 5.5mm drill bit is better used.
Once the wall plugs are tapped in, wipe down the area to get rid of excess dust with a cloth, damp toilet paper, or a wet wipe. Once both holes have been drilled and plugged using the appropriate screws, screw in the bracketing.
If you drill up vertically for the first hole and find metal lintel or structural metal, you should seek the alternative of drilling the brackets through the sides as it’s not worth pursuing the installation into the metal lintel.
If for some reason this is not an option, you should look at installing blinds onto the aluminum frame. Otherwise, we got you covered in scenario #21.
Pro tip 5 – Opening a window can be beneficial or a bad idea. If the pressure of the room is blowing outwards this will take the dust with it. Make sure the outside of the window is somewhere for the dust to scatter, like a bush or driveway.
Scenario #3: Blind installation into plasterboard, drywall, or gyprock
Once your holes are marked, first try using a long screw at about 50mm or longer and drill this into the marked area. If you contact a timber stud, aluminum, or anything solid that this screw digs into this will be enough to support the blind on the gyprock.
If your long screw makes no contact with anything, unscrew and take this out.
Now I want you to take your regular drill driver bit and drill it through the hole to widen the hole size to the size of your driver bit.
Once you have widened the hole it’s time to screw in the gyprock plug. Once this has been screwed in screw the brackets onto these.
Pro tip 6: Make sure you give a tug on the bracket one installed to make sure it's secure. If the gyprock is weak or crumbled too much your next alternative is spring toggles. To use these, you would have to widen the hole with your drill bit until you can squeeze the spring toggle through the hole. Once you insert the spring toggle and it expands then you tighten off the bolt which will cause the spring to fasten to the back of the gyprock. Other solutions are using combinations of gyprock plugs and spring toggles in one. At this stage, I would recommend injecting the hole with liquid nails as well.
Scenario #4: Blind installation into aluminum
Once you have marked where your bracket is to be installed, using Tek head screws drill through the aluminum. In most cases, this should work hassle-free. In some cases, with thicker aluminum, this may require predrilling the screw hole.
Keep in mind aluminum can usually be layered, which drilling might make a clean hole through the first layer and push the inner layer out of alignment. To avoid this run the screw in and out from the hole a few times.
In rare cases in which aluminum is too thick, or has something behind it, or is not aluminum you are best to look at other installation solutions.
Scenario #5: Blind installation onto a wall, not a frame
If you can hold the blind up over the area, it's to be installed into. By doing this you will gauge the overhang of the material and base rail on both sides. Try and use the top of the window frame or the cornice as a guide.
The image is an example of 5cm, although this may be flush or anything in-between.
Hold the blind over the area using a pencil mark roughly where the chain side bracket should sit. Once you mark this line, hold the bracket up here and dot the bracket. Drill and install this chain side bracket only, which would likely be a brick install (scenario 2) or gyprock install (scenario 3).
Once this is complete, move the ladder to the other side of the roller blind and hold the blind up and hook it into the bracket to gauge the positioning of the roller blinds.
If you need to move the blinds over, you can make small adjustments to the chain side bracket. If you need to move the bracket over a lot, like more than 1cm, you need to drill 2 new holes to reinstall the bracket further over.
Once this is in position, mark where your idler bracket should sit with your pencil.
Hold your bracket up to this marking and dot the two holes and repeat the installation.
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Scenario #6 Blind installation into a sliding door or bi-fold door area
This is usually an installation into aluminum. Mounting the brackets horizontal is common in these scenarios. Make sure the sliding door framework is stable and not loose when you install this. Make sure you are drilling far enough away from the glass to avoid any cracking. Make sure if you drill above where the sliding door inserts into the upper tracking that the sliding door can glide freely and is not brushing up against any screws. If the horizontal installation is not working out, revert to a vertical bracket installation.
It is common with sliding door installations that the mullion will interfere with the blind. The first solution is to try and mount the blind out further than the mullion. Otherwise using a hacksaw and tape you can cut the mullion. Measure the area where the blind would sit and take a marking 1cm lower than the bottom of the blind giving yourself plenty of space. Draw a horizontal line at the back. Start by carefully cutting out the horizontal line to get you a starting point, which to do this saw one side, then the other side, and then the middle. Once you have made an indentation holding the hacksaw at the right angle carefully cut through at the angle all the way until the piece of mullion has been removed with a perfect diagonal cut.
Once this has been removed correctly carefully test the door with the blind installed and make sure there is no risk of the door scratching the blind. If when testing it touches the blind, carefully close the door, remove the blind and cut the mullion again, this time further down and decrease the angle as well to take more the mullion at the backoff.
Pro tip 7: If you made some holes in a sliding door and need to patch these, add crack filler. Give this time to dry, then carefully touch up with crack filler with a black permanent marker. This technique is more common when new blinds are being installed and will be hiding and obstructing the view of the existing holes. Otherwise, get the closest matching colour of silicone.
Scenario #7 Blind installation onto a door
If you have a door that has glass on the door itself, it's most common to put Venetian or Roller blinds on the door. They are usually mounted to cover the glass but fall behind the handle. Note that Roller blind material is 35mm smaller than the measurement you take, and Venetian blinds are 10mm smaller than the dimension you take.
In most doorway scenarios you should try to mount a blind onto the door, so the door has full functionality without being impacted by the blind. In some cases, it may look nicer to have the blind on top of the door on the door frame, although the issue is in order to use the door the blind has to be pulled up, whereas if it was mounted onto the door, whether up or down you can still go in or out of the door.
It’s recommended if you install a roller blind onto the door directly you use cover plates to finish off the sides of the bracketing.
Scenario #8 Blind installation onto a wall that has been water damaged or not holding brackets well
If you have installed the brackets, and even using larger plugs and screws, are finding the brackets are not stable here are solutions to fix this. First of all, this issue is rare and usually with curtains, especially double curtains. However, it can happen especially with water-damaged walls or walls that are not constructed well. First, use extra-long screws and see if you can grip anything. Next is to inject the holes with clear liquid nails, be overly generous, and hammer in the wall plugs or screw in the gyprock screws.
Once this sets this usually will be enough to hold the blind or curtain up. However, in the most extreme cases if this is not sufficient enough you would need to go to the local hardware to purchase a white timber facia. To install this timber, use the same technique as before and mount plenty of screws. I would recommend fixing two screws every 50cm into this timber piece. Once the timber is secure mount the curtain or blind onto the timber with regular timber screws.
Scenario #9 Installation of blinds side by side next to each other
Install the two middle brackets side by side and centered directly into the middle of the mullion or area they are being installed into. Once this is complete install the wall side if there are 3 or more sides. Check that the blind will fit or if it will require moving these center brackets. Then mount the chain side bracket and install the blind. Make sure the blind goes up and down without hitting the wall. If you have leeway move the chain side bracket out from the wall width-wise, before moving the bracket height-wise.
Once you have installed the blind next to this blind, see if it’s worth moving the brackets to shorten the gapping.
Get a professional to install your blinds. No headaches or worries to have a perfect job completed giving you satisfaction for every dollar spent
Scenario #10 Blind installation into Bay Window Blinds
This can be dependent on the measurements taken and if the blinds we inset towards to window, set out further towards to room or in-between. Start with one of the far brackets, which will be chain-side brackets. Once this is up put the blind in and using a pencil mark where the idler mechanism pin reaches. Using this mark install the idler bracket for the far left blind or far-right blind.
Once you have installed the outside blinds focus on the middle blind, this will usually give you a bit of play to move the brackets in or outwards if the blind is a bit loose or tight.
If the middle blind is too tight or not long enough install it into the desired position and move both the left blinds and right blind idler brackets into a closed position to change the angle of these blinds to suit better.
Scenario #11 Blind installation of through and butt blinds or blinds meeting in a corner
Start by installing the through the blind and hook the blind in. Keep this at least 1 cm from the back of the window or frame to give the butt blind as much room as possible.
Install the chain side bracket of the butt blind. Then hook the butt blind into the bracket and check that the idler pin is not sticking out too far that the idler bracket of the butt blind will not impact the through blind when the through blind is rolled up a maximum diameter.
Check when the blinds are down that the gapping is not noticeable in the middle of the two blinds. If done correctly this should give the illusion that it is just one blind and not two.
Scenario #12 Installation of double blinds with single bracketing
Install the block-out blind first, this will usually be by the blind up top, which will set your spacing for the blind below. If you are able to get both blinds with the brackets vertically inside the frame this is ideal for double blinds as both chains can be put to the same end in this case.
In some cases, a day blind will be mounted inside the frame and the block out blind will be mounted outside the frame. See details for an internal mount and a wall-mount for this type of installation.
In another case, both blinds are being mounted onto a wall or a frame that has not much depth. In this case, you would have to space out the block-out blind with clear spaces, or Venetian slat spaces, or using flat head screws to space out the bracket, or using some sort of other spacers, which should space the blind out by about 1 cm. This is to make sure the block-out blind clears the view screen blind when its roller down.
In cases with double blinds with single brackets, I would recommend doing chains on opposite ends. This is so the chain of the block out can run around the idler mechanism of the view screen blind and you don’t have two chains interfering with each other.
There are many different solutions for this and a lot of the time they are tailored for the job to get the best look and usability. This is why getting expert advice for your particular job or a professional to do this type of installation is important.
Scenario #13 Installation of motorised blinds
This is essentially the same as a regular blind installation. Make sure you have the correct crowns or adaptors for the motor you are using. If the motor has a female or male insert and the bracket is vice versa to account for this.
Position the motor so it’s easy to access things like charging holes or buttons. Also, any wires should be positioned to the back of the blind.
Scenario #14 Blind installation into tiles
This should be avoided as the risk of cracking a tile is high and it's quite common that you can install it into the aluminum frame or into timber instead. Sometimes using spacers to reach the aluminum frame behind is again a nicer solution, because drilling through tiles can be unpredictable, which if cracking occurs can be time-consuming or expensive to repair.
Please note, I take no responsibility if you follow this and end up cracking your tile. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.
To install a blind into tile, apply masking tape over the areas requiring drilling. Then dot out where the brackets are to go. Using a hammer and a screw put the screw tip with the center of the dotted hole and give the screw a few taps with the hammer. This will stop your drill from sliding off-target and slightly reduce the risk of tile cracking.
Using the hammer setting on your hammer drill start at the slowest setting. As you get deeper into the tile you can ramp up the speed, I never recommend using full power. Drilling a single hole into a tile would take 2 minutes to 10 minutes per hole depending on the thickness of the tile.
Once you have a clean hole drilled out you can now carefully tap in a wall plus then screw in the brackets accordingly.
Scenario #15 Blind installation for high up blinds
Warning this is dangerous, and any work performed is at your own risk, if in doubt contact a professional. This is always recommended as a 2-person job.
Set up the ladder on a flat firm surface to the correct height with padding at the top of the ladder (usually a sheet or a towel will work fine to protect the window frame or wall.
A tip to get the ladder set to the correct angle is to have your toes touching the bottom of the ladder, stand straight and extend your arms out horizontal to grab the ladder. If you grab it comfortably this is correct, if you can’t grab it or it's too close to your body this means it needs to be readjusted.
Before using the ladder make sure it is fully locked off and not at risk of folding down when in operation.
Have one person at the bottom using their feet and hands to keep the ladder stable and one person climbing up.
When performing the installation try to keep as much contact with the ladder as physically possible. Don’t take any unnecessary risks, don’t overreach, don’t make fast movements, and make sure you are comfortable with heights. Take all cations to get the blind brackets installed like any regular internal or external installation.
Have your ladder set up to the blind idler side at about three-quarters along the window.
Now to hang the blind up, holding a blind at the center of its mass means you can lift a blind with a single hand, whilst climbing a ladder.
Once you are at the top of the ladder slowly maneuver the blind into the chain side bracket first. Once this is in, secure slowly moving across the blind or using a flat head, push in the pin to allow this to click into the idler bracket.
In most cases, you should contact a professional for this type of install.
Scenario #16 Blind installation for large size blinds and heavy blinds – single person handling
If you’re not a professional, builder or handyman don’t attempt this. You are responsible for your own safety and your own property if anything gets damaged.
A large size blind is usually over 3 meters in width and 3 meters in height. Being at this size they have thicker and bigger headrails and base rails. Some blinds can weigh as much as 20kg plus. If these blinds drop from a height, they will likely damage the blind, floor, or worse. In most cases these blinds are two-person jobs, especially for heavy blinds, this should always be done with the correct equipment and a second or even third person.
Here is how I have installed large-size blinds by myself.
Holding the blind at the center of its mass allows you to lift the blind up, even carrying huge blinds with a single hand. Set the ladder up 80% of the way towards the idler bracket. Lift the blind up and maneuver in the chain side mechanism then slowly moving your hands towards the idler push the idler in by screwing it or with a flat head screwdriver and click the idler into the idle bracket.
In some cases, the blind is too big for you to manoeuvrer in the chain side mechanism. The trick is to set up a second ladder or even a third ladder. This will allow you to get close to the chain side bracket and maneuver the chain side mechanisms into this. Then moving slowly move your hands across the blind towards the idler side. Carefully using the ladder platforms step over onto the next ladder. This will allow you to make your way to the idler mechanism to click this in.
If the blind brackets need adjusting after this, you may have to perform the same routine to remove the blind from the bracketing.
An alternative and safer option to this is if you set up scaffolding.
This technique is not recommended when working with heights and is dangerous. You should be contacting a professional if this is a blind installation you are looking to get done.
Scenario #17 Blind installation going wall to wall
Measure how far from the wall the blind should be. Mark the holes and install the chain bracket first. Once this is done insert the blind into the chain bracket and check if the blind is a perfect fit for the other side of the wall.
Using lines within the room is usually better than measuring from the floor to the top of the brackets. For example, if the cornice is close to the blind or the top of a sliding door frame use this as your guide. If you are able to check if these are level this will save time. Install to the closest line and make sure your blind is level.
Test the blind once installed that it rolls all the way down, so some walls are not plumb and may require the blind to be installed on an angle or a shorter blind. It’s recommended when measuring for wall-to-wall installations multiple width dimensions are taken to account for any variation in the walls.
If the blind is too small in width, what you should do is add cover plates to space out the brackets from the wall slightly. If this technique doesn’t work, your blind is too short, so find an alternative installation location, use some spaces on the outside or it's time for a new blind.
If your blind is too large your first option would be shortening the headrail. After this, the next step would be to move the brackets towards to window side or away towards to room side. This will allow some larger blinds to fit although this is a very limited technique which only works for some wall-to-wall installations.
Scenario #18 Installation of Blinds on the stairway
See if you are able to reach both bracket sides without the use of a ladder. This may include reaching over the stairs. In a lot of cases, this may require using a large ladder that can be securely set up on stairs. In some cases, you may require a telescoping foldable ladder or a combination ladder for curved stairs or blinds on corner stairs.
Pro tip 8 - A lot of high-up windows don’t have the option to open the window so can only be worked with internally but sometimes you can work on the blind from the roof outside.
Refer to scenario 14 for high-up installations.
Scenario #19 Installation with hard-to-reach places
Some installations have built-in wardrobes, walls, or other obstructions making it tricky to install a roller blind. This is also common in apartment blocks with large windows that can extend up to a meter into hard-to-reach areas or cavities.
Try all installation option which is up into the ceiling, into the sidewall and into the window sidewall or frame.
Most roller blinds should have at least 10cm of depth to roll without the risk of touching a wall or glass. A regular driver drill bit is going to be too long, even at the shortest of bits that are a couple of centimeters long because of the length of the drill. To solve this issue, you would need a 90-degree drill bit to be able to screw in around corners or in cramped spaces.
In rare cases, in which the blind can’t be installed all the way back into the wall, install the blind at least 20 or 30cm deep into the concealed area. Keep in mind chain locations need to be accessible.
Scenario #20 Installation onto unique shaped windows
The solution is usually to do a wall installation (scenario 5) of the roller blind to make sure it covers the entire window in a rectangle or square shape. In some cases, there are ceiling obstructions that may depict the installation height or width.
With a regular roller blind installation, the bottom of the blind when rolled up, shouldn’t be lower than 25mm from the top of a glass, however in unique shaped windows like circular windows or right-angled triangles the percentage of light coming through is a lot less, so this can be brought down lower than usual, without looking odd and without defeating the purpose of having a blind. This is a bit technical and depends on the specifics of your job.
Scenario #21 Installation into lintel or structural steel
A roller blind does not need to be installed into the lintel as the weight is not significant enough to justify this. Usually, your best solution is to avoid drilling into this as much as possible. Install into other parts of the masonry or concrete without the lintel behind it, install into the aluminum or timber frame. If you have to space the blind out from the window frame this is recommended. I take no responsibility for any structural damage if you drill into this.
In rare cases, in which you have no other option here is a link on how to drill a roller blind into structural metal or lintel. You will likely need a higher-powered drill to complete this.
https://armstrongsupplies.co.uk/blogs/faqs/how-to-drill-through-a-lintel
STEP #5 How to test and balance your roller blinds
I will go into a brief description of the main details of how to balance a roller blind, although this topic is deserving of its own blog, which will be linked here when done.
Roller your blinds up and down at least twice and look at the sides of the material. Are they straight to the walls or sides of the frame? If not find out if one of both the sides are plum. A basic way to see this is for example when rolling the blind down if it goes towards the left on the bottom and the gap on the right gets larger towards the bottom this means you have to lower the left bracket.
You should avoid raising a bracket because they should be installed as high up, to begin with for most installations, except blinds mounted onto a wall.
If one side only is straight and the other is not, make an adjustment to the bracket is dependent on the next step to balancing.
The next step is to see if when rolling up the roll goes to the left, right or it may already be perfectly balanced.
To control the roller blind to roll up perfectly balanced you need to roll the blind out completely to expose the headrail or as low as possible. Once this is done add tape (electrical is best but masking tape or duct tape will work) to the side of the headrail that you want to blind to roll up towards.
When you use more tape this will increase the effect causing the blind to roll further towards this side. Use the right amount so the blind is rolling up straight.
Conclusion
Did you get your blinds hung successfully? Do you feel confident installing your roller blinds even in some of the more difficult scenarios? Let me know in the comments and I’ll be sure to reply.
If you need any advice or future professional assistance on roller blinds you can contact me directly.
You can book a free measure and quote Sydney & Melbourne wide at Real Blinds. We also supply all types of blinds and offer expert installation services and advice Sydney & Melbourne wide, see our website or simply google Real Blinds for further details.
Written by
Noah Radford
Senior Blind Expert
Visit https://www.realblinds.com.au or call 1300 215 388
The person or party who sets the blind up and/or installs this blind is solely liable for any issues that may arise with the blind due to the blind not being set up correctly, not functioning correctly, not installed correctly, incorrect fittings used, or defective fittings used. Any use of step ladders, ladders, hammers, chisels or hacksaws is at your own risk. Any damage and/or injury to yourself, another person, the blind or any property is your own liability. This is a general guide and the opinion of the author of this blog. For further details which apply regarding this, see the terms and conditions on our website https://www.realblinds.com.au/terms-conditions
If in doubt contact a professional, I’m happy to provide free advice.
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